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The legitimation of fashion: Japane...

Kawamura, Yuniya.

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The legitimation of fashion: Japanese designers in the French fashion system.

紀錄類型:	書目-語言資料,印刷品 : Monograph/item
正題名/作者:	The legitimation of fashion: Japanese designers in the French fashion system./
作者:	Kawamura, Yuniya.
面頁冊數:	242 p.
附註:	Adviser: Priscilla Ferguson.
Contained By:	Dissertation Abstracts International62-10A.
標題:	Design and Decorative Arts. -
電子資源:	http://pqdd.sinica.edu.tw/twdaoapp/servlet/advanced?query=3028541
ISBN:	9780493406275

The legitimation of fashion: Japanese designers in the French fashion system.
Kawamura, Yuniya.

The legitimation of fashion: Japanese designers in the French fashion system. - 242 p.

Adviser: Priscilla Ferguson.

Thesis (Ph.D.)--Columbia University, 2001.

This dissertation considers fashion as a system of interlocking institutions, organizations, groups, practices, individuals and events that together produce the social phenomena grouped under the rubric of "fashion." In contrast to the clothing system, which produces clothes, the fashion system promotes a very small proportion of those clothes as "timely," that is, fashionable. After considering theories of fashion as a general social phenomenon (as imitation, as class marker, as social custom, as collective enterprise), I focus on clothing-fashion as a specific arena for the production of fashion, taking the occupation of designer as the focal point of the fashion system.

ISBN: 9780493406275Subjects--Topical Terms:

1024640
Design and Decorative Arts.

The legitimation of fashion: Japanese designers in the French fashion system.
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520 $a This dissertation considers fashion as a system of interlocking institutions, organizations, groups, practices, individuals and events that together produce the social phenomena grouped under the rubric of "fashion." In contrast to the clothing system, which produces clothes, the fashion system promotes a very small proportion of those clothes as "timely," that is, fashionable. After considering theories of fashion as a general social phenomenon (as imitation, as class marker, as social custom, as collective enterprise), I focus on clothing-fashion as a specific arena for the production of fashion, taking the occupation of designer as the focal point of the fashion system.
520 $a The hegemony of French fashion is a function of the fashion system that emerged in the mid-19th century. Building on a fashion culture dating to the 17th century, the French fashion system emerged in the mid-19th century with the couturier Worth. With the institutionalization of Haute Couture under semi-governmental ration in the 20th century, France offers the model of the fashion system. To demonstrate how this fashion system works to legitimate designers as creative artists and their creations as fashionable, this study adopts a production of culture approach to fashion, its creators and producers. Its empirical base is an analysis of the entry of Japanese designers into the French fashion system from 1970 to 1999, a period when haute couture was losing much of its customary client base. These designers illustrate three types of relationships to the system: Kenzo's complete assimilation through determined "frenchification"; the exoticism of the avant-garde (Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo); and the traditional sumptuous designs of the only official couturier, Hanae Mori. The integration of these foreign designers shows how the French system persists through adaptation and change.
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