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A Quest for "Publicity in Vogue" : = the Role of Public Relations Practitioners in Building Symbolic Power for Luxury Fashion Brands.

Record Type:	Electronic resources : Monograph/item
Title/Author:	A Quest for "Publicity in Vogue" :/
Reminder of title:	the Role of Public Relations Practitioners in Building Symbolic Power for Luxury Fashion Brands.
Author:	Emond, Pierre-Luc.
Description:	1 online resource (250 pages)
Notes:	Source: Dissertations Abstracts International, Volume: 82-10, Section: A.
Contained By:	Dissertations Abstracts International82-10A.
Subject:	Shopping. -
Online resource:	http://pqdd.sinica.edu.tw/twdaoapp/servlet/advanced?query=28345842click for full text (PQDT)
ISBN:	9798597035123

A Quest for "Publicity in Vogue" : = the Role of Public Relations Practitioners in Building Symbolic Power for Luxury Fashion Brands.
Emond, Pierre-Luc.

A Quest for "Publicity in Vogue" :the Role of Public Relations Practitioners in Building Symbolic Power for Luxury Fashion Brands. - 1 online resource (250 pages)

Source: Dissertations Abstracts International, Volume: 82-10, Section: A.

Thesis (Ph.D.)--The University of Manchester (United Kingdom), 2020.

Includes bibliographical references

Public relations (PR) was identified as a significant (Beverland 2004; Fionda and Moore 2009), but under-researched element for luxury fashion brands to thrive (Ko and Megehee 2012). To answer calls for "fresh" perspectives on PR (Edwards 2012a; Galloway 2013), a sociological approach was taken to address three research questions: (1) Drawing from Bourdieu's field 8theory, what game are PR practitioners playing in the luxury fashion field, and what is at stake? (2) How is the role of cultural intermediary played by PR practitioners representing luxury fashion brands? (3) How do PR practitioners adapt their game in respect to brand positions in the hierarchical field of luxury fashion?Following a snowball sampling, 29 long interviews were conducted with Milan-based PR executives and industry experts. Informants represented 42 luxury fashion brands, including Brioni, Dsquared2, Jil Sander, Salvatore Ferragamo and Tod's. Figures of media coverage and advertising investment in Italy for 2010 completed the dataset.First, the findings show that PR practitioners compete primarily for cultural capital (in the form of media coverage), with the broader aim of building symbolic power for luxury fashion brands. This study illustrates how PR workers leverage their own social and cultural capital through five key PR activities: fashion shows, product PR, celebrity dressing and gifting, press days and other events, and corporate PR. PR was found to be a site of ambiguity and tensions, because the PR game follows a logic of reversed economic ("art for art's sake"), whereas the luxury fashion field as a whole is driven by commercial aims. With boundaries blurring between luxury fashion and mass fashion (Rocamora 2002), it is argued that a key role of PR executives is to recreate a sense of boundaries to protect the status of luxury fashion.Third, the findings develop an empirically grounded sense of field to account for PR practices across a set of brands. This study illustrates how the hierarchical nature of the luxury fashion field is both socially constructed and institutionally legitimised. Based on an analytical division of brands into three categories - dominant, (re-) emerging and challenger brands - three respective PR strategies are delineated: capitalizing, selective and opportunistic PR strategies. This study contributes to literatures on sociology of fashion, PR research and luxury brand management, in that scant attention was given to assessing PR practices across brands in a social field, let alone the impact of hierarchical brand positions on PR strategies.

Electronic reproduction.
Ann Arbor, Mich. :
ProQuest,
2023

Mode of access: World Wide Web

ISBN: 9798597035123Subjects--Topical Terms:

556069
Shopping.
Subjects--Index Terms:

Public relationsIndex Terms--Genre/Form:

542853
Electronic books.

A Quest for "Publicity in Vogue" : = the Role of Public Relations Practitioners in Building Symbolic Power for Luxury Fashion Brands.
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504 $a Includes bibliographical references
520 $a Public relations (PR) was identified as a significant (Beverland 2004; Fionda and Moore 2009), but under-researched element for luxury fashion brands to thrive (Ko and Megehee 2012). To answer calls for "fresh" perspectives on PR (Edwards 2012a; Galloway 2013), a sociological approach was taken to address three research questions: (1) Drawing from Bourdieu's field 8theory, what game are PR practitioners playing in the luxury fashion field, and what is at stake? (2) How is the role of cultural intermediary played by PR practitioners representing luxury fashion brands? (3) How do PR practitioners adapt their game in respect to brand positions in the hierarchical field of luxury fashion?Following a snowball sampling, 29 long interviews were conducted with Milan-based PR executives and industry experts. Informants represented 42 luxury fashion brands, including Brioni, Dsquared2, Jil Sander, Salvatore Ferragamo and Tod's. Figures of media coverage and advertising investment in Italy for 2010 completed the dataset.First, the findings show that PR practitioners compete primarily for cultural capital (in the form of media coverage), with the broader aim of building symbolic power for luxury fashion brands. This study illustrates how PR workers leverage their own social and cultural capital through five key PR activities: fashion shows, product PR, celebrity dressing and gifting, press days and other events, and corporate PR. PR was found to be a site of ambiguity and tensions, because the PR game follows a logic of reversed economic ("art for art's sake"), whereas the luxury fashion field as a whole is driven by commercial aims. With boundaries blurring between luxury fashion and mass fashion (Rocamora 2002), it is argued that a key role of PR executives is to recreate a sense of boundaries to protect the status of luxury fashion.Third, the findings develop an empirically grounded sense of field to account for PR practices across a set of brands. This study illustrates how the hierarchical nature of the luxury fashion field is both socially constructed and institutionally legitimised. Based on an analytical division of brands into three categories - dominant, (re-) emerging and challenger brands - three respective PR strategies are delineated: capitalizing, selective and opportunistic PR strategies. This study contributes to literatures on sociology of fashion, PR research and luxury brand management, in that scant attention was given to assessing PR practices across brands in a social field, let alone the impact of hierarchical brand positions on PR strategies.
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650 4 $a Sociology. $3 516174
650 4 $a Cosmetics. $3 910868
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650 4 $a Semantics. $3 520060
650 4 $a Evolution. $3 532919
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