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Traceable Threads: A Case Study of A 12th Century Silk Textile From Al-andalus.

紀錄類型:	書目-電子資源 : Monograph/item
正題名/作者:	Traceable Threads: A Case Study of A 12th Century Silk Textile From Al-andalus./
作者:	Sajid, Andilib Khan.
出版者:	Ann Arbor : ProQuest Dissertations & Theses, : 2021,
面頁冊數:	73 p.
附註:	Source: Masters Abstracts International, Volume: 83-05.
Contained By:	Masters Abstracts International83-05.
標題:	Clothing. -
電子資源:	http://pqdd.sinica.edu.tw/twdaoapp/servlet/advanced?query=28731141
ISBN:	9798544223955

Traceable Threads: A Case Study of A 12th Century Silk Textile From Al-andalus.
Sajid, Andilib Khan.

Traceable Threads: A Case Study of A 12th Century Silk Textile From Al-andalus. - Ann Arbor : ProQuest Dissertations & Theses, 2021 - 73 p.

Source: Masters Abstracts International, Volume: 83-05.

Thesis (M.A.)--McGill University (Canada), 2021.

This item must not be sold to any third party vendors.

Silk ranked among the most sumptuous products of the medieval Mediterranean. Luxurious silks featured prominently in the ritual life of court cultures from Cordoba to Constantinople, adorning regal bodies and gifted among rulers and respected officials. Those from the medieval Islamic world, particularly Al-Andalus (or Islamic Spain), were especially esteemed. As the Islamic presence expanded across the present-day regions of Spain and North Africa from the early 8th century onwards, the succession of rulers in Al-Andalus produced a flourishing court culture that fostered influential artistic traditions and an enduring cultural effervescence. This agenda was significantly aided by the discovery of natural resources and the establishment commercial industries and networks, including a prosperous textile industry and silk weaving traditions. Al-Andalus became renowned for sumptuous silk textiles which became coveted commodities that circulated within and beyond its borders.This thesis examines the role of silk textiles from Al-Andalus through the case study of one 12th century piece known as the "Lion Strangler," whose name derives from its central iconography of a man grasping a pair of lions with both hands (Figure 1). The Lion Strangler is one of three textiles found in the tomb of Bishop Bernard Calvo (1180-1243 CE) at the turn of the 19th century. Following their discovery, the textiles were cut to smaller pieces and dispersed. Fragments of the Lion Strangler silk have been identified in multiple modern European and North American collections. Indeed, one piece exists in the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, and this fragment prompts the present investigation as it has not been published before. This thesis brings this unknown fragment of Lion Strangler to light, and reassesses its longer social life. Framing the Lion Strangler as a portable object transferred across borders and between environments over time, my study aims to "humanize" the textile by assembling its wider biography, which is punctuated by seminal shifts in significance across multiple pathways that have shaped its life as a historical object.This study's focus on biography and social life has been shaped by the work of cultural anthropologists Arjun Appadurai and Igor Kopytoff, whose insights have been instrumental for the study of objects and material culture at large.1 Their work illuminates how objects uphold social, economic, and symbolic meanings as commodities within systems of exchange, stressing the agency of "objects in motion" as they traverse various forms of exchanges and in turn develop active social lives. These insights are especially insightful for re-animating a luxury silk of Andalusi manufacture that spent much of its life enshrined in a Christian tomb and then cut to pieces for the modern art market. In reassessing these different phases of its social life, my study sees objects as far more than inert artifacts but as active agents in the negotiation of medieval and modern cultural identity. By proposing a more expansive vision of the Lion Strangler's history, I critically challenge the prevalent position of what is termed the "triumphalist paradigm" in Islamic art historical scholarship that regards the circulation of objects of Islamic manufacture in Christian contexts as mere war plunder and symbols of religious triumph.

ISBN: 9798544223955Subjects--Topical Terms:

3682213
Clothing.

Traceable Threads: A Case Study of A 12th Century Silk Textile From Al-andalus.
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