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The effects of trapped waves in the ...

Staples, Tracy Jacqueline.

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The effects of trapped waves in the nearshore.

Record Type:	Electronic resources : Monograph/item
Title/Author:	The effects of trapped waves in the nearshore./
Author:	Staples, Tracy Jacqueline.
Description:	72 p.
Notes:	Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 77-02(E), Section: B.
Contained By:	Dissertation Abstracts International77-02B(E).
Subject:	Ocean engineering. -
Online resource:	http://pqdd.sinica.edu.tw/twdaoapp/servlet/advanced?query=3729286
ISBN:	9781339150567

The effects of trapped waves in the nearshore.
Staples, Tracy Jacqueline.

The effects of trapped waves in the nearshore. - 72 p.

Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 77-02(E), Section: B.

Thesis (Ph.D.)--University of Florida, 2015.

This study focuses on the development of infragravity waves in the nearshore that become trapped by reflection at the shoreline and refraction at a seaward turning point. These edge waves propagate alongshore and are important to nearshore dynamics. Two datasets with evidence of trapped waves are investigated and their effects on morphology are discussed.

ISBN: 9781339150567Subjects--Topical Terms:

660731
Ocean engineering.

The effects of trapped waves in the nearshore.
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020 $a 9781339150567
035 $a (MiAaPQ)AAI3729286
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100 1 $a Staples, Tracy Jacqueline. $3 3181533
245 1 4 $a The effects of trapped waves in the nearshore.
300 $a 72 p.
500 $a Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 77-02(E), Section: B.
500 $a Adviser: Alexandru Sheremet.
502 $a Thesis (Ph.D.)--University of Florida, 2015.
520 $a This study focuses on the development of infragravity waves in the nearshore that become trapped by reflection at the shoreline and refraction at a seaward turning point. These edge waves propagate alongshore and are important to nearshore dynamics. Two datasets with evidence of trapped waves are investigated and their effects on morphology are discussed.
520 $a On Banneg Island, France, very high water-level events (6.5 m above the astronomical tide) have been observed on the western cliff, exposed to large swell from the North Atlantic. The analysis of hydrodynamic measurements collected during the storm of February 10, 2009 shows unusually high (over 2 m) infragravity wave run-up events lasting for over an hour. A comparison of run-up observation to measurements in approximately 7-m of water, and numerical simulations with a simplified nonlinear model allow to identify two distinct infragravity bands: an 80-s infragravity wave, produced by nonlinear shoaling of the storm swell, and a 300-s wave, trapped on the intertidal platform of the island and generating intermittent, low-frequency inundation. Our analysis shows that the 300-s wave is a key component of the extreme water levels recorded on the island and is responsible for regularly-observed cliff-top deposits of huge rock slabs broken from the cliff face and transported 300 m to the opposite side of the island.
520 $a Field observations of waves, currents, and sediment transport, collected near Panama City, Florida, USA, near the 7.5-m isobath, are used to investigate boundary layer processes during the storm associated with an atmospheric front passing over the experimental site on May 5th, 2013. The storm generated offshore waves reaching 2-m significant height, and caused alongshore sediment transport that deposited a 14-cm layer of sand. The analysis of observations suggests that the transport process was directed primarily alongshore and was driven by edge waves coupled to short wind-driven waves propagating in the alongshore. The observations are consistent with a double-negative scenario: negatively skewed edge waves, generating short bursts of large velocities oriented toward NW, followed by longer periods of weak SE velocities; and flow/sediment-suspension phase-lag conditions that allowed for transport during flow-reversal to dominate. This type of alongshore transport mechanism might play a significant role on coasts subjected to atmospheric fronts oriented nearly perpendicular to the shoreline.
520 $a Analysis of these two studies suggests that trapped waves in the nearshore are very important to nearshore morphology. It has been suspected that edge waves are responsible for morphological changes in the swash zone (beach cusps) and infragravity waves have been shown to dominate in the nearshore. This study, however, shows morphological changes both inside and outside the surfzone that are seemingly associated with trapped waves. At both sites, extreme events lead to the development of infragravity waves that became trapped and have significant impacts on nearshore conditions.
590 $a School code: 0070.
650 4 $a Ocean engineering. $3 660731
650 4 $a Physical oceanography. $3 3168433
690 $a 0547
690 $a 0415
710 2 $a University of Florida. $3 718949
773 0 $t Dissertation Abstracts International $g 77-02B(E).
790 $a 0070
791 $a Ph.D.
792 $a 2015
793 $a English
856 4 0 $u http://pqdd.sinica.edu.tw/twdaoapp/servlet/advanced?query=3729286