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The production of glamour: A social ...

Fields, Jill Susan.

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The production of glamour: A social history of intimate apparel, 1909-1952.

Record Type:	Electronic resources : Monograph/item
Title/Author:	The production of glamour: A social history of intimate apparel, 1909-1952./
Author:	Fields, Jill Susan.
Description:	331 p.
Notes:	Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 59-06, Section: A, page: 2159.
Contained By:	Dissertation Abstracts International59-06A.
Subject:	American Studies. -
Online resource:	http://pqdd.sinica.edu.tw/twdaoapp/servlet/advanced?query=9835102
ISBN:	9780591886290

The production of glamour: A social history of intimate apparel, 1909-1952.
Fields, Jill Susan.

The production of glamour: A social history of intimate apparel, 1909-1952. - 331 p.

Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 59-06, Section: A, page: 2159.

Thesis (Ph.D.)--University of Southern California, 1997.

Glamour is a concrete commodity and a less tangible, but no less real, cultural icon. Glamour's dual status as both manufactured object and signifier requires extending the scope of investigation into the history of intimate apparel to include production as well as consumption. This means analyzing intimate apparel in terms of its fabrication and distribution as a manufactured good and an object of material culture, and also as a representation of the female body and as a producer of meanings which circulate in more elusive cultural forms. Thus, the production of glamour takes place in multiple locations. These include the shop floor and the department store, advertisements and movies, and the female body itself.

ISBN: 9780591886290Subjects--Topical Terms:

1017604
American Studies.

The production of glamour: A social history of intimate apparel, 1909-1952.
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008 130610s1997 eng d
020 $a 9780591886290
035 $a (UnM)AAI9835102
035 $a AAI9835102
040 $a UnM $c UnM
100 1 $a Fields, Jill Susan. $3 1919383
245 1 4 $a The production of glamour: A social history of intimate apparel, 1909-1952.
300 $a 331 p.
500 $a Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 59-06, Section: A, page: 2159.
500 $a Chair: Lois Banner.
502 $a Thesis (Ph.D.)--University of Southern California, 1997.
520 $a Glamour is a concrete commodity and a less tangible, but no less real, cultural icon. Glamour's dual status as both manufactured object and signifier requires extending the scope of investigation into the history of intimate apparel to include production as well as consumption. This means analyzing intimate apparel in terms of its fabrication and distribution as a manufactured good and an object of material culture, and also as a representation of the female body and as a producer of meanings which circulate in more elusive cultural forms. Thus, the production of glamour takes place in multiple locations. These include the shop floor and the department store, advertisements and movies, and the female body itself.
520 $a The period begins with the decline of the rigid nineteenth-century corset, a key factor in the transition to twentieth-century fashion, and continues until the revival of fashionable corsetry after World War II. Augmented by analysis of costume artifacts, initial chapters explore the history and meaning of selected undergarments--drawers, corsets and girdles, and brassieres--within the changing social context of American women's lives. Subsequent chapters examine the advertising and mass production of these garments. These chapters reveal how glamour works as a powerful mechanism for mediating tensions generated by the social and ideological division between production and consumption. Represented by the glamorous fashion industry and the unglamorous garment industry, this fissure upholds hierarchical relations within both spheres. A concluding discussion of the post-war reinstitution of extreme waistline constriction assesses the power relations central to the formation of gendered identities in the twentieth century.
520 $a Transformations in the shape of undergarments throughout this period reveal how changes in the social construction of femininity are expressed through the body. Clothing, a key marker of gender differences, provides women a means of expression, a site of rebellion and/or conformity, and a venue for the articulation of power and subordination. Private and sexualized, yet essential to the shaping of the publicly viewed silhouette, the history of intimate apparel reveals the processes which transform the physical body into the cultural body and materializes the otherwise intangible critical effects produced by glamour.
590 $a School code: 0208.
650 4 $a American Studies. $3 1017604
650 4 $a History, United States. $3 1017393
650 4 $a Women's Studies. $3 1017481
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690 $a 0337
690 $a 0453
710 2 0 $a University of Southern California. $3 700129
773 0 $t Dissertation Abstracts International $g 59-06A.
790 1 0 $a Banner, Lois, $e advisor
790 $a 0208
791 $a Ph.D.
792 $a 1997
856 4 0 $u http://pqdd.sinica.edu.tw/twdaoapp/servlet/advanced?query=9835102