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Field measurements and modeling of s...

Brown, Jennifer.

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Field measurements and modeling of surfzone currents on inhomogeneous beaches.

Record Type:	Language materials, printed : Monograph/item
Title/Author:	Field measurements and modeling of surfzone currents on inhomogeneous beaches./
Author:	Brown, Jennifer.
Description:	116 p.
Notes:	Source: Masters Abstracts International, Volume: 48-01, page: 0557.
Contained By:	Masters Abstracts International48-01.
Subject:	Physical Oceanography. -
Online resource:	http://pqdd.sinica.edu.tw/twdaoapp/servlet/advanced?query=1469483
ISBN:	9781109385786

Field measurements and modeling of surfzone currents on inhomogeneous beaches.
Brown, Jennifer.

Field measurements and modeling of surfzone currents on inhomogeneous beaches. - 116 p.

Source: Masters Abstracts International, Volume: 48-01, page: 0557.

Thesis (M.C.E.)--University of Delaware, 2009.

Field observations of surfzone current patterns on open coast, alongshore inhomogeneous (rip-channeled) beaches during varying wave and tidal conditions are described for three different sites (Monterey, CA; Truc Vert, France; Perranporth, United Kingdom). Bathymetry, offshore waves, tidal elevation, in-situ co-located pressure and current observations, and Lagrangian drifter measurements were obtained, and data analysis procedures are explained. Two distinct surfzone current patterns were observed: (1) an alongshore sinuous current pattern coupled to the underlying bathymetry, and (2) a rip current circulation pattern.

ISBN: 9781109385786Subjects--Topical Terms:

1019163
Physical Oceanography.

Field measurements and modeling of surfzone currents on inhomogeneous beaches.
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020 $a 9781109385786
035 $a (UMI)AAI1469483
035 $a AAI1469483
040 $a UMI $c UMI
100 1 $a Brown, Jennifer. $3 1683809
245 1 0 $a Field measurements and modeling of surfzone currents on inhomogeneous beaches.
300 $a 116 p.
500 $a Source: Masters Abstracts International, Volume: 48-01, page: 0557.
500 $a Advisers: Jamie H. MacMahan; James T. Kirby.
502 $a Thesis (M.C.E.)--University of Delaware, 2009.
520 $a Field observations of surfzone current patterns on open coast, alongshore inhomogeneous (rip-channeled) beaches during varying wave and tidal conditions are described for three different sites (Monterey, CA; Truc Vert, France; Perranporth, United Kingdom). Bathymetry, offshore waves, tidal elevation, in-situ co-located pressure and current observations, and Lagrangian drifter measurements were obtained, and data analysis procedures are explained. Two distinct surfzone current patterns were observed: (1) an alongshore sinuous current pattern coupled to the underlying bathymetry, and (2) a rip current circulation pattern.
520 $a To date, alongshore currents have primarily been observed and described on alongshore homogeneous beaches. Surprisingly, new observations on alongshore inhomogeneous beaches found that sinuous alongshore currents occurred for 40% of the time, rather than the expected rip current circulation. Alongshore sinuous currents typically occurred during low waves and mid-tides, associated with small differences in wave angle from shore-normal. Numerical results from XBeach show that the surfzone alongshore momentum balance is between the alongshore pressure gradient and the combination of alongshore wave forcing and non-linear advective acceleration. The alongshore (a)symmetrical balance of terms was the distinguishing factor between alongshore sinuous currents and rip currents.
520 $a Rip currents typically developed during large waves and/or low tides, which consisted of coherent surfzone eddies, bound in the cross-shore by the surf zone width, and in the alongshore by the quasi-periodic rip channel spacing. These rip currents episodically exited the surf zone (&sim; 15% per hour), indicating a greater amount of surf zone retention than previously thought.
520 $a A "human drifter" was observed to mimic the response of the surfzone drifters, having a 10% chance of exiting the surf zone. Most observed rip current systems were asymmetric, circulating in one dominant direction. Therefore, following the traditional advice to "swim parallel" to the shoreline when trapped in a rip current, a swimmer has a 50% chance of choosing the correct alongshore direction to reach safety. These findings suggest that a beach-goer should remain calm and afloat, and they will have a 90% chance of being returned onshore to wading depths.
590 $a School code: 0060.
650 4 $a Physical Oceanography. $3 1019163
650 4 $a Engineering, Marine and Ocean. $3 1019064
650 4 $a Marine Geology. $3 1674685
690 $a 0415
690 $a 0547
690 $a 0556
710 2 $a University of Delaware. $b Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering. $3 1021002
773 0 $t Masters Abstracts International $g 48-01.
790 1 0 $a MacMahan, Jamie H., $e advisor
790 1 0 $a Kirby, James T., $e advisor
790 $a 0060
791 $a M.C.E.
792 $a 2009
856 4 0 $u http://pqdd.sinica.edu.tw/twdaoapp/servlet/advanced?query=1469483